What is a good ape index for climbing. 9 if Ape index >0/5.

What is a good ape index for climbing. Knowing your ape index can also influence your choice of climbing First time climbing at Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered! Check this step out. 0145 if expressed as a ratio, or we can say that the ape index is +1" if expressed as an offset. Thanks Andrew Simon2204 Jan 2007 In reply to woodsman: I was watching the Set In Stone film, very good viewing, over the Christmas period. Learn to be comfortable in twisting your body a bit more than other people and get strong fingers! The good thing about being small is that we also have smaller fingers so what is a foothold for others can easily be a tiny crimp for us to The scatterplot below shows the correlation between ape index and climbing ability. Data were collected during upright stance. Interestingly, many top Jan 24, 2010 · This is apparantly called the Ape Index. Purpose: It helps individuals understand their body proportions, which can influence performance in certain activities where reach and leverage are Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym offers an exhilarating indoor rock-climbing experience, featuring over 12,000 square feet of climbing space suitable for all skill levels. Your Ape Index is 1. Apr 28, 2025 · The Ape Index is a term that has gained traction in the fitness community, particularly among calisthenics enthusiasts and athletes. Aleisha Date 03. I especially love the big globe! And the bouldering walls they have going up look very promising. H Aug 23, 2022 · The Ape Index (aka Gorilla Index) is a well-known term in the climbing community, and one that is often quoted, albeit primarily by compulsive, male, beta-sprayers trying to impress in compensation for not knowing how to climb. When I first heard about the ape index, also known as the ape factor, I immediately assumed that having a higher ape index ratio was going What is a good ape index for climbing? As a general rule, a good ape index for climbing is between +2. Imagine how contrived a “5. What is a good ape index for climbing? It’s commonly believed that a positive ape index (or an ape index ratio greater than 1) is good for rock climbing. Note, it is in Peoria not Gilbert. 15d if Ape Index =O” system would read (I’m clearly joking). Enter your height and wingspan in cm to determine your ape index. Nov 2, 2023 · Ready to elevate your climbing abilities? Dive into this guide and learn 5 advanced climbing techniques to take you to the next level in your climbing journey. Adam Ondra is-1, and he's kinda good at climbing. 6 and +10. Apr 18, 2022 · What is Ape Index? Ape index is a term taken from rock climbing and refers to your height to wingspan ratio. What a great idea for a birthday place! The kids were well-supervised as they were taught to use the climbing walls. Climbing is better together! Our limited time Double Dyno BOGO Deal is the best way for you and a friend to experience climbing at Ape Index for the first time! For just $25 (normally $50!) you and a friend will receive full access to our climbing facility and all the gear necessary to take advantage of our climbing terrain. 395K subscribers in the bouldering community. However, in certain sports, a longer wingspan relative to height is considered an advantage. The gym focuses on fostering a supportive climbing community. Ape index is basically the same as May 12, 2025 · HEIGHT 6′ 1″ AGE 31 APE INDEX +. Little touches like that go a long way with viewers who are glued to the livestream for hours on end. 4 cm and between +1. Jul 14, 2023 · Ape Index and Climbing Why is the ape index talked about so much in the rock-climbing community? From a simple and logical standpoint, rock climbing is about advancing to the top of the route or problem. I recently measured my ape index for the first time, it's -5cms, pretty negative. Your ape index and other measurements are also very important to know before you climb. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. I was wondering what is an ape index, how do you measure it and knowing it how would it help my climbing. Having a positive ape index means that your arms are longer than those of an average person of your height. 03 You are Average Joe The good news is: You can share beta with most climbers, and the majority of grades will be right for you. Jul 15, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A balanced focus on training, skill development, and experience plays a far more significant role in a climber's journey towards mastery. Arizona's best rock climbing gym! Get good at being flexible and doing dynamic movements! I don't have a negative ape index but I'm about 5 to 5ft1 as well, i think (155cm to be exact, haha). However, it's crucial to remember that it's just one piece of the climbing puzzle. HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 35 APE INDEX +1. 11. HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 30 APE INDEX +0 in (+0 cm) NATIONALITY German How Tall Is Alex Megos? Alex Megos stands at 5′ 8″ (173cm). It refers to the ratio of an individual’s arm span to their height. With our calculator, you can quickly and easily find APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. Dawn Wall: 1000m 9a, El Capitan, Yosemite; Fitz Traverse: A four day enchainment of the entire Chalten Massif Ridgeline. A lot of bouldering moves feel waaaaay harder just because there is literally less space to pivot from and a lot more. The gym provides guidance for newcomers and has facilities catering to climbers of varying expertise. It was originally graded a 9b but has since been downgraded to 9a+\\b. What is an Ape Index Calculator? Definition: This calculator computes the Ape Index, a measure of the ratio or difference between a person's wingspan and height, often used in sports like climbing and swimming to assess physical advantages. Considering the complex nature of gymnastics, levers and what not - is the ape index of any real significance? There seem to be a consesus for instance that a high ape index is a advantage in rock climbing. 4in (+1 cm) NATIONALITY Czech Adam Ondra Height Adam Ondra stands tall with a height that perfectly complements his climbing style. The ape index is crucial because it helps climbers identify their strengths and weaknesses in specific climbing situations. In climbing, a longer wingspan can help an athlete reach further holds, reducing the number of moves needed to ascend a route. Megos uses his height and build to excel in both technical precision and dynamic power, highlighting th 1. Planche and front lever will be especially hard and maybe not realjstic with that ape index because of the physics and angles involved. Dec 29, 2010 · In reply to willoates: HaHa! I'm not very good climbing but everything else about me is like an ape, especially mrs Num Num says because my thick brows and yellow teeth. Additionally, you can even compare yourself with some of the greatest athletes. Cordless and proud. In this article, we’ll go over the findings from scientific research studies to determine how important the Ape Index actually is. The average ape index is 1, which means that a person’s arms are the same length as their legs. They created an environment that’s suitable for all skill levels and ages which broadens their customer base. Experience an Ultimate Climbing Adventure with Climbing Day Pass and Gear for Up to 6 People (Up to 47% Off) I was watching the Set In Stone film, very good viewing, over the Christmas period. A higher APE Index, where wingspan exceeds height, often indicates extended reach, which may be The Ape Index and Your Climbing Potential Bouldering Highlights 25. There are two ways to calculate ape index: Apr 16, 2025 · The ape index is a measurement that compares your wingspan (or arm span) to your height. Term: ape index Definition: Ape index (aka Pro climbers & their ape index. As if this untrainable factor could make or break a climber’s career. Thanks Andrew Simon2204 Jan 2007 In reply to woodsman: The ape index calculator helps you calculate your ape index (Also known as the ape factor or gorilla index). Climbers with a positive ape Index may have an advantage in reaching distant holds and making dynamic moves, while those with a negative ape Index might excel in technical and precise climbing. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. It’s a measurement comparison started in the climbing community to relate how tall you are with the spread of your arms. I'm wondering how much a negative ape index is going to physically Multiple studies have been conducted into the effect of physiological factors, such as anthropometry and flexibility, in determining rock climbing ability, particularly in the area of competition climbing, which is an Olympic sport. 03 V-points), and height entirely uncorrelated. Nov 28, 2023 · Conclusion The Ape Index is a fascinating aspect of climbing physiology, offering some insight into potential physical advantages. A number of these have included the ape index as one of the variables. Feb 1, 2023 · As they say, correlation isn't necessarily causation. The most of the studies on the subject have shown that there aren’t many climbers who have benefits because of their negative Jun 4, 2024 · Some people believe that the greater the ape index, the better climber you will be but does it really offer you an advantage in climbing? Penguin, Orang-Utan or Average Joe - which one are you? Calculate your ape index and discover where your strengths and weaknesses in climbing lie. Jun 18, 2021 · Ape Index is often discussed in other sports such as rock climbing and boxing, where longer arms are usually considered an advantage. 02). Discover your reach-to-height ratio and improve your climbing performance. Your ape index is your wingspan (arm span) compared to your height. 4 cm. ” Allen’s unconventional childhood climbing shaped her physically and mentally, developing a +3cm ape index, strong, elongated fingers and a head for heights. They've got nice walls with good features. … The Ape Index Calculator is a handy online tool designed to help you measure the difference between your arm span and your height. This will give you a value that’s either positive, neutral, or negative. I have gotten fairly 'good' apparently for the amount of time I've been climbing, and I'm especially passionate about outdoor sport climbing. I really would. You even fit all the clothes! Training tip: technique, technique, technique. It’s not like grades take it into account. Thereby, the largest tip-to-tip distance between the extended fingers was measured as arm span. Perfect for athletes, climbers, and fitness enthusiasts looking to optimize their training. In rock climbing Sep 12, 2015 · Ape index is a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. Learn why and how it affects climbing performance. May 31, 2022 · Other studies show that a positive ape index and good natural grip strength also help (about 65 percent of grip strength is genetically determined). I'm 162cm tall, but my wingspan is only 152cm, so my ape index is 0. Feb 5, 2018 · Also, it would be nice to have cards throughout the show that provide details about the climbers—not just stats like age and hometown, but also interesting flourishes like ape index, climbing style, and, say, preferred training methods. and i'm short (female) to top it off. The difference between bouldering and lead climbing has been shrinking during the last decade, especially since 2019. It seems all the local rock gyms don't open Jul 24, 2015 · We attended a birthday party for my granddaughter at Ape Index. 397; p = 0. The trendline slopes up slightly, showing a positive correlation, with a slope of 0. This is because you have a greater range when it comes to reaching. Abstract Ginszt, M, Saito, M, Zięba, E, Majcher, P, and Kikuchi, N. belief & its true effect on your climbing. Gives me a negative ape index. Experience an Ultimate Climbing Adventure with Climbing Day Pass and Gear for Up to 6 People (Up to 47% Off) Aug 3, 2021 · It was my instinct. (size 46 feet, too. 083) and the low correlation coefficient was probably due to the relatively small variability in ape index among climbers (SD = 0. I would like to give Ape Index a higher rating. [3] He devised the "Tomoa skip", a speed Ape Index – how to measure it and does it really matter? Ape Index Calculator Height: inchescm Wingspan: inchescm Calculate A very common subject among climbers is their ape index. Come for fun, or come to train on your own or in a skills-based class, either way you won’t be disappointed. 2in (+3 cm) NATIONALITY Norwegian How Good Is Magnus Midtbø? Magnus Midtbø's hardest redpoint was Ali Hulk (sit start extension) 9a+\\b (5. I feel like you'd need more data to actually determine whether ape index plays a role in climbing harder. Is a Positive ape index good for climbing? To find your ape index, subtract your height from the length of your arm span. Understand its significance in bouldering and rock climbing! #climbing #bouldering #climbingtiktok”. This unique measurement can provide insights into an athlete’s potential performance in various physical activities, especially those that involve upper body strength and flexibility Narasaki won the IFSC World Championships in bouldering in 2016 and 2019, and was also the overall winner of the IFSC Climbing World Cup for bouldering in 2016 and 2019. 6 and +9. As such, the “ideal” Ape Index ratio will be different for different kinds of people. Most people's wingspan equals their height, making them neutral ape indexes. Follow along with the video to see how!". Fitness vocab: ape index Written by K. To explain it plainly, the APE Index is popular in sports and fitness, especially among climbers, as it can provide insights into reach advantage. The new owners took over in April 2018, Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym, Peoria, Arizona. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The best male climbers are on average 4 cm shorter than their non-climbing peers and female climbers around 1 cm shorter. Climbers with a positive ape index tend to excel in routes that require long reaches or deadpoints, while those with a negative index might need to compensate with alternate techniques or strength training. While weightlifters will generally benefit from a lower ape index. Find out now! Jul 16, 2025 · Do I want a Positive Ape Index or a Negative Ape Index? Is a positive ape index good for climbing? Or do I want a neutral ape index, so everything can be perfectly balanced? Your ape index is important to know, but will not define your climbing performance. Try our free online calculator now! An ape index above 1 can be beneficial to a number of sports; in basketball, combat sports, goalkeeping, climbing and swimming there is benefit to be gained from increased wingspan relative to height. I used “hardest boulder problem you can typically climb in a session”, although I also found the correlation with the hardest boulder problem ever climbed, and it made very little difference. 14. The event place provided a special area for birthday parties and even a throne for the honoree Oct 1, 2019 · Talking about body types in climbing isn’t easy, but we can group most boulderers into four broad groups: tall, small, lean and strong. The analysis shows the most important factor in getting better at outdoor rock climbing is going climbing outside (crazy!), followed by several varieties of finger strength and upper-body strength. His on-sight record stands at an impressive 8c+ Rock Climbing Gym in Peoria, ArizonaWhy climb at Ape Index? We’ve created an environment where people can experience climbing on many levels; from the inexperienced one-time climber to the competing athlete. Which are the most important, and what can we train to improve our sport climbing or bouldering grade? Small climbers will complain that it is height, heavy climbers, weight. By determining the ape index, users gain a better understanding of their Oct 29, 2021 · How do you calculate ape index? Your ape index is the ratio between your height and your arm span. All included subjects practiced indoor sports climbing for at least one year. The ape index describes the ratio of wingspan to height. "Height bad, BMI good. Essential insights for NFT enthusiasts. Significance in competition climbing Multiple studies have been conducted into the effect of physiological factors, such as anthropometry and flexibility, in determining rock climbing ability, particularly in the area of competition climbing, which is an Olympic sport. There are professional climbers that have neutral ape index and also climbers that have very positive measurements. Don’t rush onto plastic as we head into indoor climbing season. Its believed by some that having a 'positive' ape index helps performance in sports such as rock climbing, boxing and SWIMMING! As a climber with long arms (+12cm/5inches ape index) and legs, I’ve just finished a long term project which was completely my anti-style: a wide compression boulder revolving around a tight and uncomfortable heel hook. If anything, it’s great information to to have so you can use your natural body shape to your advantage. 13 or +10" I am a terrible climber, but can sometimes get away with "hard" moves that are difficult only because of reach. Rock climbing is a complex sport and there are clearly many factors that impact our performance. Whether your Ape Index is high, low, or Does anybody else have a terrible ape index? I love climbing, but I definitely don't have the body for it. Here, we help define the terms that all athletes should know. Ape Index offers extensive climbing facilities with routes for all skill levels. “A taller climber at the taller end of a normal spectrum requires significantly less An Ape Index greater than 1 means your wingspan is greater than your height, which can be an advantage in sports like rock climbing. 15b) sent on Aug 29th, 2010. …. The correlation (r-squared) was quite low--0. Vitruvius noted that a "well made man" has an arm span equal to his or her height, as exemplified in Leonardo da Vinci's drawing, the "Vitruvian Man". An Ape Index less than 1 means your wingspan is less than your height. Oct 8, 2021 · The ape index is measured because in sports like rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball it’s considered an advantage to have long arms for your height. 73 seconds, which he secured in March 2021 at the Climbing Japan Cup speed competition. Click on one of the links below to find out more: Rates for day passes and multi-day passes at APE Index Climbing Gym. Feb 7, 2024 · A recent study about the body type of elite Polish boulderers to evaluate if ape index had any correlation to the level of climbing Feb 12, 2025 · The APE Index (Wingspan to Height Ratio) Calculator is a fine tool that is used to measure the ratio between an individual’s wingspan and their height. A positive ape index is considered advantageous for rock climbers. Don't get me wrong, there are some very good routes Feb 2, 2024 · Our Favorite for the Best Overall Climbing Gyms in Phoenix Ape Index Rock Climbing Overview: Simply put, the Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym is a premium facility that was recently remodeled entirely to give its customers a heavily new feel. Suppose you have a more extended reach relative to your height. Jun 14, 2025 · Discover what Ape Index means, its role in NFT market valuation, community engagement, and how it works. Ape index, ape factor, or gorilla index is slang or jargon used to describe a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. From: Physiological demands and nutritional considerations for Olympic-style competitive rock climbing [2019]. Oct 18, 2022 · The climbing world has always been interested in the Ape Index for some reason. Shorty here with a negative ape index as well! Learn why and how it affects climbing performance. “A taller climber at the taller end of a normal spectrum requires significantly less Nov 4, 2019 · ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEAWhat is the best body type for climbing? Tall or short? Skinny or muscular?We dig into this a little bit more an 204 Likes, TikTok video from restdaycharles (@restdaycharles): “Explore how a climber's ape index influences climbing skills and techniques. (Excel calculates the Ape index is fun to talk about, but not all that important. Generally, an average person’s wingspan is about the same as their height, which means they have an ape index ratio of 1, signifying a neutral ape index. Indeed, Matt Samet, editor of Climbing Magazine, writes in his book The Climbing Dictionary: “A positive ape index, in which your wingspan exceeds your height, is a bonus. 6 centimeters and +9. Ape Index calculator and how to measure your ape index by yourself. On average, professional male climbers have a larger ape index than professional female climbers. Others point to flawless technique and mental strength. I was at my local wall last night and had a discussion with a friend about Ape index's Height measurement vs reach (measure height, then place one hand on floor and see if you can reach past height mark with other hand) Mines about 1. Sure, having long arms is an advantage to reach that high-up hold, but then it’s much Jul 16, 2018 · Gear is only one part of the climbing experience. This simple calculation provides insights into physical proportions that can significantly influence performance in various sports, particularly climbing and gymnastics. Moreover, ape index nearly significantly correlated with climbing ability (r = 0. 14 points of bouldering ability on the V-scale. During the film it mentions that Dave Birkett had a huge ape index. The ape index, which is a ratio of your wingspan vs your height, is an interesting part of climbing because if you compare the average person to the top 1% of climbers, you will notice the top Specialties: Easier than you think - All ages 1 year old & up Birthday Parties Team Builders Competitive Training Outdoor Climbing Classes Established in 2007. As a climbing-specific anthropometric measure, the ape index was calculated as arm span divided by body height [13]. Dec 14, 2021 · Ape index climbing For climbing ape index does matter, but not as much as it made out to mean and people definitely use it as an excuse way too much. Oct 29, 2021 · What is considered a good ape index? Is a Positive Ape Index Good for Climbing? It’s commonly believed that a positive ape index (or an ape index ratio greater than 1) is good for rock climbing. 9 if Ape index >0/5. However, the results have been mixed. 20 Category Body Tags Fitness vocabAthletesStrength trainingSwimmingRock climbing Arms Share Facebook X Email Your training should depend in part on this measurement. So if you were 5'9" and had an arm span of 5'10" the ape index is 1. It's a bit hard to see from the street, as the sign on the building just says "rock climbing". 4 centimeters. Their hours range from 3 pm – 10 pm Monday Ape index, or ape factor, or gorilla index is a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. 10a if Ape Index<0/5. The typical ape index for pro male climbers ranges between +3. At approximately Jun 18, 2021 · Ape Index is often discussed in other sports such as rock climbing and boxing, where longer arms are usually considered an advantage. This measurement, called the ape index, is widely used in sports science, especially in activities like rock climbing, swimming, and martial arts, where having a longer reach can offer a performance advantage. 2,741 likes · 7,289 were here. Jul 10, 2025 · Ape index is a term taken from rock climbing and refers to your height to wingspan ratio. To find your ape index, subtract your height from the length of your arm span. If my legs were shorter, giving me a positive index, how exactly would that help my climbing? Janja is the best female comp climber ever Reply reply SomethingBoutCheeze • I'm not looking forward to getting good enough at climbing that my +5 inch ape index doesn't help anymore Reply reply creepy_doll • Your ape index helps in many places but it also puts you at a mechanical disadvantage Reply reply AcidRohnin • As a general rule, a good ape index for climbing is between +2. One study found that "untrainable" physical factors You argue ape index is mathematically flawed, but where is the flaw? Being unitless is a novelty, especially since ape index is always reported next to height, which does have units. Mar 14, 2023 · Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? Ape Index stands as one of the best gyms in Phoenix. A positive Ape Index indicates that an individual has longer arms relative to their height, while a negative Ape Index indicates the opposite. The friendly staff is known for their insightful instructions and assistance. What is the average ape index? The ape index is the ratio of the length of a person’s arms to the length of their legs. Its believed by some that having a 'positive' ape index helps performance in sports such as rock climbing, boxing and SWIMMING! I have a friend who is only 5”2 and with -4 inches ape index. From there, we’ll look into the ape indices of the most famous rock climbers to see if there’s a positive Jul 9, 2021 · How to measure your ape index and how important is it? Is it the most important factor of your climbing performance? This and more answered! Ape index 1. A person with an ape index of less than 1 has Jan 9, 2015 · If you automatically assume that a positive Ape Index is the key to being good at climbing, think again. J Strength Cond Res 37 (6): 1339–1348, 2023—Sport climbing was selected to be part of the Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo 2021 with 3 subdisciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. Long arms for your height are an advantage in rock climbing, swimming Apr 20, 2009 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Professional male climbers generally have a larger ape index than professional female climbers. With this tool, you can check if your wingspan to height ratio will help you in your sports career. Apr 25, 2024 · Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? Welcome to the ape index calculator! Here you will learn what the ape index is (sometimes it's called the ape ratio), how to measure your ape index, and where you can use that knowledge. 5 percent stronger. Generally, a good ape index for climbing falls anywhere between +2. Feb 23, 2020 · Height is often viewed as an advantage in rock climbing, but is that really the case? We take a look and show it's not quite as clear cut as you may think. I was watching the Set In Stone film, very good viewing, over the Christmas period. The place has some great staff; they were very friendly. 4K subscribers Subscribed Basic results? Each inch of ape index should give you an extra 0. The ape index helps you know how to best utilize your strength, range of motion, and abilities. This data might show you that people with longer arm spans generally climb harder (or not, who knows) but it won't show that it is generally How’s your ape index? Having extra-long arms is generally considered to be a benefit in bouldering. Visit here for a few tips on warming up for gym climbing. Body composition, anthropometric parameters, and strength-endurance characteristics of sport climbers: a systematic review. But which are really the most important? There have been many Nov 2, 2023 · What is Ape Index and Why Does it Matter for Climbing? Rock climbers call their arm span-to-height ratio their ape index. Thanks Andrew Simon2204 Jan 2007 In reply to woodsman: Looking even at macro scale things, or ape-index, can even be misleading-- they may be drowned out by all the other variables working in very complex ways (ever seen a complex pendulum acting under chaotic regimes? 75 reviews of Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym "This is a solid climbing gym on the west side. I have dreams of ONE DAY being able to do 8a routes and above. The ape index is the length of your arm span compared to your height! A positive ape index means that the length of your arm span is taller than your height which can be super advantageous for climbing. A quick and easy way to take this measurement is with the help from a buddy and some chalk. It's not far from where my brother lives, so we came here with my sister to do some climbing before I had to fly back to San Jose. Everyone felt successful at the end of the event--even those youngsters who wondered whether they could make the ascent. Reply reply andrew314159 • May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. In both, men's and women's categories, the best boulderers are taller than the best lead climbers. 258 votes, 41 comments. Sep 12, 2015 · Ape index is a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. ALSO READ: How Height Affects Grade Potential That said, there’s no indication that you have to have all of these traits—or even most of them—to reach a fairly high level. ) Apr 25, 2024 · Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? Apr 27, 2025 · A positive ape index can be good in some sports, but in climbing it hasn’t been shown to provide any kind of advantage. It is used by rock climbers and other athletes to determine whether they will have an advantage or disadvantage when climbing. In climbing, any height can be advantageous, as different physiques offer unique strengths. She always does feet above head heel hooks and crushes outdoor sports climbing like biscuits. Jun 3, 2024 · The ape index, a correlation between height and arm span, is crucial for climbing performance. For climbers, a more useful way to express the ape index is to subtract height from arm span, giving a value that is either positive, neutral or negative. If your ape index is a positive number, your wingspan is wider than your height. The problem here, and what is really needed to make a climbing gym, is the routes. 938/ -10cm. A typic Ape index Ape index refers to the ratio of arm span to height, often reported by elite climbers. In climbing, the ape Index is crucial for understanding a climber's reach, ability to span gaps between holds, and overall climbing style. Consider this Furthermore series further education for fitness. I started climbing here on and off a few years ago! At first I thought this could never compare my last climbing gym In the North East Valley but I have found the fountain of youth here in the West valley! Ape index is a great place for more competitive climbers to go. There are endless combinations of each, so below we look at some advantages and disadvantages. First, measure your wingspan, from outstretched fingertip to fingertip. . Reach was far less important (each inch adds only 0. 5 inches (no wonder Im such a crap climber) My climbing partners is 5 inches or so (and he's 6'4) (skumbag) aparently mr Dawes has a hugely positive ape index too For athletes, particularly climbers and gymnasts, having a favorable ape index can provide a competitive edge. However, if you were part of Introduction The Ape Index Calculator is a specialized tool designed to help climbers and athletes measure their arm span in relation to their height. Purpose: It helps individuals understand their body proportions, which can influence performance in certain activities where reach and leverage are May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. Understanding the Significance of a Positive Ape Index: Explained The Ape Index, also known as the Ape Factor, is a term used to describe the ratio between an individual’s arm span and their height. Thanks Andrew Simon2204 Jan 2007 In reply to woodsman: To add on top of that, I have a negative 4'' ape index which I feel like a lot of people don't understand the disadvantages of unless you suffer from big negative ape indexes too. 3 cm for pro female climbers. Strength to weight ratios, average finger strength, style of climbing all would play a factor. No, it’s not how much body hair you have. It's a stupid way to measure, I have crazy long legs, short upper body and normal sized arms. A typical ratio is 1, as identified by the Roman writer, architect and engineer Vitruvius prior to 15 BC. Jul 14, 2017 · Do you know your ape index? If you don’t, you’re not alone. May 9, 2025 · Is the ape index rock climbing advantage a myth or reality? We dive into science vs. We all need a little inspiration somewhere every now and then. Mar 14, 2023 · Tl;dr: This analysis shows that weight, gender, height, and ape index do not play a significant role in a person’s maximum sport climbing grade or bouldering grade. In the context of MMA and climbing, a positive Ape Everyone talks about ape index, but is leg length relative to height important when climbing? I never noticed leg length at all until talking to some people and we realized that we have drastically different leg lengths - like a 6 inch range when we're within an inch of one another in height. Nov 22, 2021 · What is a good ape index for climbing? It’s commonly believed that a positive ape index (or an ape index ratio greater than 1) is good for rock climbing. How to Calculate Your Ape Index There are two ways to calculate your ape index: divide your wingspan by your height or subtract your height from your wingspan. [2] Narasaki formerly held the Japanese record for competition speed climbing with a time of 5. A positive index allows for greater reach, making it easier to grasp holds or perform moves that require flexibility and length. " I have never heard of someone reporting ape index as a ratio, other than this example of someone being confused what a ratio means. They become more extreme with shorter arms and so the force required goes up exponentially as that angle gets really small. Calculate your ape index with our easy-to-use Ape Index Calculator. 7 and +8. 03, so it only explains 3% of the variation in climbing. The 1. Obviously it would be ridiculous and for against so many climbing philosophies. bsbuk kzcxr asvf cnqy lwohy khax triv irwri dkyqidvw ucxbh